Painting a brick exterior is one of the biggest visual changes you can make to a house. It can quickly turn an old, patchy brick front into a clean, modern-looking exterior. While some people feel brick should stay natural, good masonry paint can give your home a fresh, even surface, hiding stains, repairs, and color variations while giving a strong boost to curb appeal.
How well your project turns out depends completely on how you prepare and what products you use. Brick is porous and needs to “breathe” so moisture can escape. If you use breathable, masonry-specific paint and follow the right steps, a painted brick exterior can last for decades. It will protect your home from weather and make it stand out on your street. The job takes time and care, but the finished look often beats many other exterior updates.
Why Paint Brick Exteriors?
Benefits of Painting Exterior Brick
The biggest reason people choose to paint brick is the instant improvement in curb appeal. Some older brick colors-like bright oranges from the 1970s or dark reds from the 1980s-can make a house feel out of date. Using today’s popular colors like soft whites, dark charcoals, or rich navy blues can make the entire house look newer without doing major construction.
Paint also acts as a shield. Good exterior masonry paint is made to stand up to UV rays, heavy rain, and general wear. Painted brick is also much easier to clean than bare brick. Natural brick is rough and full of tiny holes that trap dirt, soot, and webs. Once painted, the surface is smoother, and you can usually just rinse it with a hose to keep it looking clean.
Potential Drawbacks and Considerations
Painting brick is a long-term decision. Once brick is painted, taking the paint off is very hard, very messy, and often damages the surface of the brick. If you like to change your exterior often, remember you’re committing to repainting every 15-20 years instead of returning to bare brick.
There is also the risk of trapping moisture. Using the wrong paint-like a non-breathable, film-forming latex-can hold water behind the paint layer. When that trapped moisture freezes and thaws, the paint can peel and the brick can start to crumble (spall). Picking the right paint is not just a style choice; it affects the structure and long-term health of your walls.
Does Painting Brick Increase Home Value?
In many areas, a well-painted brick home done by professionals can sell for more than a similar unpainted one. Buyers often like homes that look modern and “ready to move in.” A fresh, stylish exterior makes a strong first impression and can lead to more showings and quicker offers. It sends the message that the home has been updated and cared for.
However, results differ based on location. In historic neighborhoods where natural brick is part of the area’s character, painting might lower value or even be against local rules. Before you start, study recent home sales near you to see whether painted brick homes are popular or if people still prefer natural brick in your area.
Should You Paint Brick or Leave It Natural?
Much of this choice depends on the current brick. If your home has high-quality, older brick that has aged nicely, keeping it natural is often the best way to keep its character and charm. Natural brick needs very little care, other than occasional mortar repairs every few decades.
If your brick is stained, mismatched from additions, or simply an unpleasant color that doesn’t match your taste, painting is a great option. It pulls together different brick sections into one clean look. If you’re unsure, you might try limewash or brick stain instead. These change the color while keeping more of the brick’s natural texture and breathability.
Is Painting Exterior Brick Right for Your Home?
Types of Brick Suitable for Painting
Some bricks accept paint better than others. Standard clay bricks in solid condition are usually the best for painting. They’re porous enough for the primer to grip, but strong enough to handle cleaning and prep. Older handmade bricks can also be painted, but they often need gentler handling because they can be softer and hold more moisture.
You should not paint bricks that are already crumbling, badly damaged, or always damp because of drainage problems. Also avoid painting “glazed” or “ceramic” bricks. Their slick, shiny surface does not bond well with paint and will peel quickly. If the brick looks glossy and glass-like, it’s better to leave it unpainted.
How to Evaluate the Condition of Your Brick
Before you start, do a simple “scratch test” and “moisture check.” Gently press a screwdriver into the mortar. If it crumbles like dry sand, the joints need repair before painting. Look for efflorescence, the white powdery salt on the surface. This means you have moisture problems that must be fixed at the source before painting, or your paint will bubble and flake off.
Walk around the house and look for cracks. Thin hairline cracks are often just surface-level, but wider ones can point to settling or structural movement. Painting over a serious crack only hides it for a short time. The crack will show again, and you’ll have missed the chance to fix the real issue inside the wall.
Local Climate and Weather Impacts
Your climate largely affects how long painted brick will last. In warm, humid, or coastal areas, mold and mildew are more common, so you need paint with strong mildew resistance. In cold northern climates, freeze-thaw cycles are the biggest threat. If water gets behind the paint and freezes, it can cause the front face of the brick to break off.
The best time to paint is during dry, mild weather. Aim for temperatures between 50°F and 90°F for at least 48 hours after you paint. High humidity slows drying. Hot, direct sun can make paint dry too fast, stopping it from leveling and leaving lap marks or brush lines.
Cost of Painting a Brick Exterior
DIY vs Professional Painting Costs
Doing the work yourself or hiring a pro makes a big difference in cost, mainly because of labor. A DIY job for a typical two-story home might run from $500 to $1,500, including good paint, primer, and equipment rental. But you’ll need to set aside several weekends and be ready to spend long hours on ladders. Painting brick is hard physical work and takes time.
Hiring a professional crew usually costs between $3,500 and $10,000 or more. The price is higher, but pros have industrial sprayers, lifts, and scaffolding that make the job faster and safer. They also handle the heavy prep work-washing, scraping, and repairs-which is what really makes a paint job last 20 years instead of just a couple.
Price Estimates Based on Square Footage
Most painters charge by the square foot of exterior wall. Expect somewhere around $2.00 to $4.50 per square foot. Simple shapes like a single-story ranch fall on the low end, while complex homes-multiple stories, gables, and detailed trim-are at the high end.
For a typical 2,000-square-foot house, the brick area you actually paint might be about 1,500 to 1,800 square feet after subtracting windows and doors. At average rates, you might pay roughly $4,000 to $7,000. Getting at least three quotes helps you understand the going rate in your area in early 2026.
Factors Affecting Total Cost
Several things can raise or lower the price:
- Mortar condition: If many joints need repointing before painting, labor costs climb.
- Height and access: Extra stories, steep lots, or hard-to-reach areas may require lifts or scaffolding.
- Paint quality: Cheaper “contractor grade” paint costs less up front but usually fails sooner.
- Color choice: Dark colors often need extra coats to cover fully.
Spending more on higher-grade elastomeric or silicate-based masonry paints often saves money later because they last longer and need fewer repaints.
Tools and Materials Needed for Painting Brick Exteriors
List of Essential Tools
To paint brick properly, you need more than a simple brush. Here’s a basic tool list:
- Pressure washer: For removing dirt, loose material, and old chalky residue.
- Stiff-bristle brush: To scrub tough stains and efflorescence.
- High-quality paint sprayer: An airless sprayer is best for getting paint into all the small gaps.
- Thick-nap rollers: A 1″-1.25″ nap made for rough surfaces for back-rolling.
- Masonry brushes: For cutting in along edges, windows, and trim.
- Drop cloths and painter’s tape: To protect windows, concrete, siding, and plants.
- Caulk and caulk gun: To seal openings around windows and doors.
Choosing Brick Paint, Primers, and Sealers
Never use standard interior paint or cheap exterior latex on brick. You need paint clearly labeled for masonry. Silicate-based paints are often considered the best because they chemically bond with brick while still allowing it to breathe. Elastomeric paints are also common; they can stretch and bridge small cracks, but must be used correctly so they don’t trap moisture.
A good masonry primer is just as important. The primer grips the brick and helps the topcoat stick. Look for an alkali-resistant primer, because brick and mortar are naturally alkaline and can cause ordinary primers to fail. In very wet climates, you might also use a breathable masonry sealer as a final coat, though many newer masonry paints already include sealing features.
Safety Gear and Precautions
Safety should be one of your main concerns. You’ll likely be on ladders, so place them on level ground and use stabilizers if you can. If the house was built before 1978, there may be lead paint on trim or old brick coatings. In that case, follow EPA lead-safe rules for scraping and sanding.
Wear a good respirator mask when spraying paint so you don’t breathe in fine mist. Safety glasses and gloves are important when using cleaners like TSP or while pressure washing. Also stay aware of overhead power lines when moving ladders around the house.
How to Prepare Exterior Brick for Painting
Cleaning and Power Washing the Surface
A lasting paint job depends mostly on prep work. Begin by pressure washing the entire brick surface. You don’t need extremely high pressure; too much can damage brick. Use enough power to remove dirt, bird droppings, and loose mortar. For mold or mildew, use a mix of one part bleach to three parts water, or a masonry cleaner meant for this purpose.
If you see white, crusty salt (efflorescence), scrub it off using a stiff brush and an efflorescence remover. If you paint over these salts, they will push through the paint later and cause peeling. After cleaning, rinse the house well with clean water and let it dry completely.
Repairing Damaged Brick and Mortar
Once everything is clean, damage becomes easier to see. Check mortar joints; if any are gone or recessed more than about 1/4″, repoint them. Scrape out loose mortar and pack in new masonry repair mix. Let it cure for the time the manufacturer suggests-often several days-before you prime.
For cracked bricks, fill the cracks with paintable masonry caulk to stop water from entering and freezing. If a brick is badly broken or missing, replace it. Smooth, repaired areas help the final paint job look neat and even.
Protecting Landscaping and Adjacent Surfaces
Paint spray can travel farther than you expect, especially in light wind. Cover shrubs, flower beds, and lawn areas near the house with drop cloths or plastic sheeting (don’t leave plastic over plants for long in hot sun). Use painter’s tape and plastic to mask windows, doors, lights, gutters, and the roof edge.
Also protect the ground. Cover concrete driveways, pavers, and patios completely. Dried paint is very hard to remove from porous stone or concrete. Spending a little extra time protecting surfaces now will save a lot of cleanup later.
Allowing Sufficient Drying Time
This is the step many DIYers rush. Brick soaks up water and can stay wet inside long after it looks dry on the surface. Let the brick dry at least 24-48 hours of clear weather after washing before you prime. If you paint while the brick is still damp inside, the paint can blister and peel within a year.
Check shaded areas or the north side by touch. If the brick feels cool or damp, it isn’t ready. Waiting long enough at this point is often the difference between a paint job that lasts 20 years and one that fails within one season.
Priming and Painting: Step-by-Step Guide
When Is Priming Necessary for Brick?
In most cases, you should use a primer on exterior brick. Because brick is porous and has a high pH, it can suck moisture out of paint, causing a flat, chalky look. Primer seals the pores and gives the paint a solid, consistent base. Some masonry paints say “self-priming,” but using a separate primer generally gives better results on bare brick.
If you’re repainting brick that’s already painted and in sound condition, you might only need to prime repaired spots. For first-time painting or big color changes, a full coat of masonry primer is the safest choice.
How to Apply Primer to Exterior Brick
The most effective method is to spray the primer, then back-roll it. Spray a generous coat onto the wall, then have someone follow behind with a thick-nap roller to push primer into every groove and mortar joint.
Work in sections from top to bottom. Pay close attention to brick undersides and deep vertical joints. If you are working alone, spray smaller areas (around 4×4 feet) and roll them right away so the primer doesn’t start to dry before you roll. Aim for an even coat without drips or runs.
Applying Paint: Brushes, Rollers, and Sprayers
After the primer dries (check your product, usually 4-24 hours), you’re ready for paint. An airless sprayer is usually best for the main wall surfaces. It gives a smooth finish and reaches into the brick’s texture better than a brush. Hold the sprayer about 12 inches from the wall and move with steady, overlapping strokes.
Use a strong masonry brush for detail areas. These stiff-bristle brushes can handle the rough surface without falling apart. Use them to cut in around windows, doors, and soffits. If you don’t have a sprayer, you can use thick-nap rollers for everything, but expect more effort to force paint into every gap.
Recommended Number of Coats and Drying Times
Plan on two coats of paint for brick. The first coat sets the color and fills most pores. The second coat evens out the finish and adds a full protective layer. Even if the first coat looks okay, the second coat gives you the strength and coverage needed for weather resistance.
Follow the label for drying times between coats. Often you should wait at least 4 hours, longer in humid conditions. Don’t rush and try to get both coats on in one day if the air is damp or temperatures are dropping. If the first coat is still soft, the second coat can pull it off the wall and cause peeling.
Inspecting and Touching Up Painted Brick
Once the second coat is dry, inspect the house at several times of day. Changing light angles can reveal missed spots (known as “holidays”) or shallow mortar lines that didn’t get full coverage. Keep a small brush and some leftover paint nearby to touch up these areas.
Look closely where brick meets trim or window frames. Clean, straight lines make the job look professional. Any overspray on glass is easiest to scrape off with a razor blade after the paint dries. Remove painter’s tape while the paint is still slightly soft to get the sharpest edges.
Curb Appeal and Design Ideas with Painted Brick
Popular Color Choices for Painted Brick Homes
White is still the most popular color for painted brick, giving a “Modern Farmhouse” or “Classic Estate” feel. Off-whites and creams often look better than bright pure white because they feel softer and more natural in sunlight. Light grays and “greige” (gray-beige mix) are also very popular and tend to look current but not trendy.
For a stronger statement, deep charcoals, nearly black tones like “iron ore,” and navy blues are trending in 2026. Dark colors can make a smaller home feel more grounded and stylish. With dark colors, many people prefer flat or eggshell finishes, since glossy dark paint can highlight small flaws in the brick.
Before and After Transformations
Brick painting often creates some of the most dramatic before-and-after changes. A dull 1960s ranch with mixed brown brick can become a bright, welcoming cottage with a simple coat of warm white such as “Swiss Coffee.” The paint calms the busy brick pattern and lets the shape of the windows and roof stand out.
Homes with several additions benefit as well. Newer sections often use brick that doesn’t match the original house. Painting everything one color ties all the parts together and makes it feel like a single, well-planned design.
How to Complement Landscaping and Trim
Painting brick usually means rethinking trim colors and landscaping. White brick pairs well with black or dark bronze windows, gutters, and railings for bold contrast. Dark gray brick looks great with a natural wood front door or cedar shutters, which add warmth and texture.
Landscaping will also stand out more. A painted wall acts like a clean backdrop that makes plants “pop.” Bright evergreens, colorful perennials, and trees with rich foliage all look stronger against a neutral painted brick. Adding exterior lighting aimed up at the brick can highlight the texture and show off your new finish at night.
Maintenance and Longevity of Painted Brick
How Long Does Painted Brick Last?
When brick is well cleaned, fully dry, properly primed, and coated with high-quality masonry paint, the finish often lasts 15-20 years. This is similar to good siding. The key is using breathable products so moisture can escape instead of building up behind the paint.
A quick, low-quality job with the wrong materials might start peeling in just 2-3 years. Severe weather, poor drainage, heavy shade, and faulty gutters can also shorten the life of the paint by keeping walls wetter for longer.
Routine Care and Cleaning for Painted Brick
Keeping painted brick looking good is fairly simple. Once a year, gently wash the exterior using a garden hose and soft brush to remove dust and webs. Avoid using high-pressure washing for regular cleaning, since strong pressure can slowly wear down the paint or drive water into small cracks.
Watch your gutters and downspouts. If water runs or splashes on the same spot on the wall all the time, the paint there will wear faster and may stain or peel. Keep bushes and plants trimmed back at least about a foot from the brick so air can move freely and surfaces dry more quickly.
Signs Your Painted Brick Needs Repainting
One clear sign of aging paint is “chalking.” If you rub the wall and your hand comes away with a powdery film, the binder in the paint is breaking down. Other signs include fading (often on the sunniest side), tiny cracks in the paint film, or any spots where the paint is flaking or peeling.
Don’t wait until the paint is coming off in big sheets. Repainting earlier is cheaper and easier because the prep is lighter. Often a mild cleaning and one fresh coat of paint are enough if you catch the wear in time.
Frequently Asked Questions about Painting Brick Exteriors
Can I Paint New Brick Immediately?
No. New brick and mortar are highly alkaline and hold a lot of moisture. Painting too soon can cause the paint to fail, blister, or peel. Most professionals suggest waiting at least one year, and many prefer closer to two years, for new masonry to dry and cure fully.
If you must change the look sooner, consider a high-quality brick stain instead of paint. Stains allow more airflow and work better with newer brick, as long as the surface is clean and not overly wet.
Can You Paint Over Previously Painted Brick?
Yes, you can. But the state of the old paint matters a lot. If the old finish is still stuck firmly, you can clean it and then apply a new topcoat. If you see peeling or flaking, you’ll need to remove all loose paint first. That may mean scraping, wire brushing, or even using chemical strippers in bad cases.
You should also find out what type of paint is already there. If it’s oil-based, you’ll need a primer made to grip oil-painted surfaces before switching to a modern water-based masonry paint. Always do a small test patch in a hidden area to check adhesion before doing the whole house.
Should You Paint Brick in Humid or Cold Climates?
You can paint brick in most climates, but you need to choose your paint and timing more carefully in humid or cold regions. In humid areas, pick paints with high vapor permeability and built-in mildew resistance. In cold areas, avoid painting when nights might drop below freezing, since low temperatures can stop the paint from curing properly.
In very cold or very wet places, silicate (mineral) paints are often the best choice. They do not create a film on top of the brick. Instead, they bond into the surface, making them much less likely to peel in freeze-thaw cycles. They cost more and can be harder to find, but they hold up very well in tough conditions.
What Are the Most Common Mistakes to Avoid?
The biggest mistake is skipping cleaning and prep. Painting over dirt, algae, or efflorescence almost guarantees early failure. Another frequent error is using regular exterior house paint meant for siding instead of masonry paint. It may look fine at first but will often trap moisture and damage the brick over time.
Painting on damp brick is also a major problem. Even if it hasn’t rained, dew or recent washing can leave enough moisture in the pores to prevent good adhesion. Also, always check HOA rules or historic guidelines before you start. The last thing you want is to finish the job and then be told to remove it.
Final Tips for a Successful Exterior Brick Painting Project
As you get ready to change your home’s look, remember to test colors before you commit. Paint large sample areas on plywood or on less-visible parts of the brick. Watch how each color looks in morning light, midday sun, and evening shade. A color that seems like the perfect warm white at noon may look too yellow or too cool at other times.
Think about how color affects how you feel too. Curb appeal matters for resale, but you see your home every day. Light colors often feel bright and open. Darker shades feel more cozy, solid, and refined. You’re making a long-term change, so choose something that fits how you want your home to feel.
If you’re looking for something between full paint and bare brick, look into limewashing. Limewash is made from crushed limestone and water. It is naturally resistant to germs, very breathable, and creates a soft, aged finish that wears in a charming way over time. It gives many of the benefits of a painted look while actually improving how the brick handles moisture. Whether you choose a crisp modern paint color or a classic limewash, taking your time and doing each step correctly will help your home look great and stay protected for many years.
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